Lifestyle: In Italy’s Maremma, it’s all going swimmingly

On an otherwise secluded side of the Argentario promontory in Porto Ercole, a port town where the painter Caravaggio died and to which Rome’s radical chic now flock, Roberto Scio, the owner of the luxury hotel Il Pellicano, and his daughter, Marie-Louise, regaled my wife and me with semi-apocryphal stories about Scio’s accidental discovery of the hotel in 1974. Seasickness led to the search for shelter, which led to a meeting with Charlie Chaplin, which led to his encounter with the British couple who owned the small hotel and his decision, years later, to buy the place. All this led, as we sat there, to his pausing to call over a guest he had spotted walking up from a swim.
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